Ukrainian embroidery 1000 years in fashion
Fashion and style is a relative concept, so relative that it's hard to define. First of all, it should be attributed to national costumes. Knowing their national symbols, customs, costumes, we sometimes don't realize what a significant role they play in our daily lives.
What constitutes a modern urbanized society traditional Ukrainian costume?
First things associated with traditional Ukrainian costume, it certainly embroidered shirt. This is the virtually the only element which today is quite relevant in the wardrobe Ukrainian. Ukrainian embroidery is one of the few national brands, known all over the world. The shirt is one of the oldest types of clothing of our ancestors. Material for the manufacture of shirts Ukrainians have long served as hemp or linen. Ukrainian shirt had a lot of local options - as in the title ("Koszul", "wrinkle", "aplic", "frame", "pryzbilla", "rubato", "Sorokina", "chlopaka", "chumack"), and in the structural features of the region.
It should be noted that embroidered shirts in rural suit appeared not earlier than the middle of the XVIII century, although traditional Ukrainian embroidery originates from the X-XI century, when the embroidery was quite common among the feudal nobility. A powerful impetus for the spread of embroidery in rural folk costume workshops were landlords of the end of XVIII century - the beginning of XIX century, in which women fortress embroidered everyday things for Panov. But if Panska environment embroidered with gold or silver shirt was a sign of social status, in the popular representation of the shirt was the closest to the body of the subject, representing the magical power, hidden in the body.
The generation of the 60s-70s should remember the wave on this style of clothing. Perhaps a splash of fashion to wear embroidered shirts in the 80-ies, was influenced by the Olympics-80, which was the loudest and biggest event of the Brezhnev era.
Use in the manufacture of advanced sewing and embroidery equipment, the development of new technologies embroidery, modernized approach to modeling patterns, superior quality textile materials all contribute to the construction of our embroidery on the pedestal of the best product of the textile industry.
Today buying embroidery this is not so much the bow to the ancestors, how many purchase fashionable, current, comfortable and sophisticated brand.
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For those who want their hands to create the embroidery let them to give a few tips.
Compliance with these rules is achieved by such methods.
When the cross is on one straight line, horizontally, all the stitches are performed first in one direction and then they overlap stitches in the opposite direction.
When the cross is sewn vertically, making one stitch from the bottom up, on the wrong side to go straight up and punctures with a needle on the front side, make a diagonal stitch down arrow to the left. Making the wrong side of a straight stitch up, go to the formation of the third cross, etc.
The most challenging job on the diagonal, because in some cases it is necessary to draw a second diagonal stitch under performed first to ensure that all top stitches on the front side of the fabric lay in one direction.
Bulgarian cross sewn as usual, but a larger odd number of threads
It consists of four stitches that overlap two diagonal and two on base. Make each cross separately. First, the usual cross, then after the second stitch needle injected in the middle between the top two punctures, make a longitudinal stitch from the top down and cross from left to right.
All Ukrainian women's shirts sleeves are wide and long. Regular length shirts must reach on "bones"; Shirts under her skirt sew a bit shorter. Based on the options cut, highlight the major types of shirts:
- monicapadilha
- with shoulder inserts
- with a solid sleeve
- Basque
Monicapadilha
Monicapadilha - the most archaic fit. In the late XIX - early XX century it remained predominantly in men's shirts, kroenig from one Central, bend transversely of the cloth to which the sides were sewn two longitudinally twisted cloth - sleeves. Below sleeveless state were sewn barrels (half the blade width) and gusset. In the kinked area cut out the neck and made a deep cut - pasulka.
Shirt with shoulder inserts
Shoulder inserts are rectangular (sometimes trapezoidal) pieces, which connect the front and back of shirt. It is the shirt with inserts, sewn-on basis, has long been considered a purely Ukrainian type of cut.
A variant of this breed have a shirt where the insert is sewn in a beveled upper corners of the machine.
Insert expanded shoulder portion of the shirt and gave me the opportunity to surround the neck and sleeves, which are often prisbarivali. The width of the insert was equal to or half of the width of a homemade canvas or its entire width.
Shirt with single cut sleeve
Shirt with single cut sleeve on the territory of Ukraine existed in two versions. In the first upper sleeve-shaped insert, the sleeves were sewn or on the basis of, or pickany.
In the second embodiment, the sleeve prosperous across the width together with the neck and shelf status and were sewn only on the basis. He could be narrow or broad, depending on, microwave it from one piece of cloth, or it was added peppoloni. The sleeve in half the panel width probatova on the Left Bank (Poltava region) and was the most wide throughout Ukraine.
Shirt on Basque later phenomenon for Ukraine, became widespread in women's clothing, first in southern areas, and in the late XIX - early XX century. and Central. In Transcarpathia shirts on Basque came from Romania, here this shirt is called "cornflower".
Design condition this shirt was determined by the number of panels. Depending on the fabric width can be from three to six. and they are located symmetrically or asymmetrically relative to the center of the shape. The product is sewn together from three panels; in the volume of the shirt was 140-145 see
The length of women's shirts must be such that peek out from under other clothes. The long shirt he wore in the North of Chernigov. In some areas of the Carpathians and Transcarpathian preserved variant short shirts (oplichchyam), worn with a white linen skirt.
Local features shirts are also determined by the design of the neckline. Female shirts on the Left Bank had no collar, and prisbrey neckline was trimmed with a band or narrow strip of cloth. At the ends of the sheathing was doing loops through which stretched tape for binding, Neck or fit snugly against the neck, or had an oval, and sometimes square in shape. Bank shirt was always made with a collar, sometimes standing, sometimes down. In the Central regions of Ukraine, both of these approaches were combined.
The shape and finish the neckline and collar composite associated with the design of the bottom of the shirt sleeves, which are also often prizability and decorated panel (Left) or cuff-"cover" (the right Bank). In Cherkasy oblast neck and cuffs were laid in the Assembly and was framed with ruffles.
A range of sostavlenie open materials Internet resources of Runet and Ukrnet.
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