Berlin aims to become a trendsetter

Berlin aims to become a trendsetter...

Jean-Pierre Mocho, President of the French Federation of women's pret-a-porter, has alarming: more famous fashion houses, among them the fashion house Jean-Paul Gaultier and even traditional fashion house Christian Dior, enjoy the cheap "sewing services" in China, Indonesia and Eastern Europe. Proud stripe "Made in France" are increasingly giving way to a place hidden on the underside of the label "Made in China". "If you buy a suit from Gautier, there is still hope that it is made in France. The skill of tailors still lives, " says Mr. macho in an interview with radio station Deutschlandfunk. But if you buy a t-shirt or jeans of the same company, you can be assured that they were manufactured in China or India".

The disappearance of crafts and outsourcing fashion

Coco Chanel, as is known, was personally involved in fitting dresses her clients and possessed great scissors and a sewing machine. But those days are long gone. Modern fashion houses only develop the model, the production of a greater or lesser extent delegated to the factories and workshops. In its pure form, outsourcing, when doing part of the work is given out. In the ideal case, the fashion house is a co-owner of the production line or at least works with regular partners, as of which there is no doubt. But the cooperation with young European workshops are expensive. At least a tailoring factory in Asia is much cheaper.



Photo: Couturier Yves Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, is considered one of the "last of the righteous fashion: the model was made exclusively in the Studio of fashion designer. Today, many of them took place in the Museum

Only over the past decade, and in one only of France in the field of textile production the number of jobs has decreased by about a hundred thousand. And it is not just about reducing disappear the whole craft. Estimates of the French Federation of women's pret-a-porter, in recent years, under the threat of closure was more than a thousand small exclusive enterprises: grosgrain workshops, manufacturers of buttons and lace, Studio art embroidery. Or, say, in Paris, almost no professional Gladilina. Once every fashion house had its own "iron". "We lose the knowledge and skills that have been accumulated and perfected over the years - distressed Jean-Pierre Mocho. - Entrepreneurs have only one thing in mind: to quickly get their profits. We will never return lost".

Where do you watch politics and society? Do high fashion is not the same domain of French culture and French cuisine? Is! So last year the Minister of industry Christian Estrosi acted as an intermediary in the conclusion of the agreement on mutual support". The document is addressed to the acting in the international arena French fashion houses and French manufacturers. This Charter about proper behavior" has signed dozens of companies, but it does not have the proper effect. According to Monsieur macho, "the fashion house will be seized by a head only when their glory is spoiled, but because of low quality will fall sale". But the process of rethinking of values has already begun, he said with a slightly strained optimism. To ensure that people have learned to appreciate food from local producers, also took time.

Berlin is replaced Paris

If the glory of the French high fashion, alas, pales, German style and fashionable design on the rise. "Over the next five years Berlin will take place one of the fashion capitals of the world, on a par with Paris or Milan," said the Berlin fashion designer Michael Michalsky (Michael Michalsky).

Now held twice a year Berlin fashion week (Berlin Fashion Week) has attracted greater international attention than traditional commercial fashion shows in Milan. "Big money is still being made while in Milan, but all fresh and interesting, you receive it in Berlin. For Berlin the future! "I am sure Michalski. And he is not alone in this opinion.

One of the strengths of the trendy Berlin is, in particular, its geographical proximity to the countries of Eastern Europe. Here they show off their collections by young designers from Bulgaria, Hungary, Poland and other countries. "Without exception, all the Directors of the leading fashion houses come here in search of talent," issues Michalski behind-the-scenes information." According to him, today women's fashion are not frivolous ladies in fancy dresses, and women who in the morning rushing to work, and by the way bring your child in kindergarten. "These women want the whole day to look stylish and attractive," says fashion designer. It is Berlin represents for him "live fashion", which can be seen on the streets of the capital.

Author:

Anastasia Butsko

women's web magazine