Stories about him manners and tricks I visited one periodical. This is how his Studio, where preparations for the fashion show, correspondent Details: "the Room looks as if terrorists blew up the zoo. Everywhere scattered patches of skin that once belonged to the goat, sheep, Zebra, and other not pet. Perhaps his bedroom Studio and will become the epicenter of the shock wave, which will bring us a new style, but now there is very bad smell. In the room it heavy spirit of the dead, bleach, tobacco and anxiety. Seemingly calm McQueen neatly attaches pins piece leather women jacket, worn on the mannequin. Blue eyes, soft fuzz on the cheeks and upper teeth protruding from a tiny mouth, he looks like a walrus. I ask him what it's for skin. "Foreskin", - he throws. So, anyway, I heard. His dispassionate voice sounds like boiling somewhere in the depths of the larynx and, if steam comes out from the nose. "The foreskin? " - I asked. "No! aloud he says. "I said, boar's flesh. Boar's hide. He sounds vaguely resembling a smile or even cry of some animal. Although I had previously worked with extreme flesh, cackling, he adds,".
When a couple of years ago the headlines began to trumpet the glory of young British fashion designer, Lee Alexander McQueen (friends - only) quickly became the hero of all publications. Sales it is far behind such giants of marketing as Prada and Donna Karan, however, there is no doubt that this is one of the most hotly debated figures in the world of fashion.
Fans of McQueen praise his skill of the cutter, a rich imagination, and claim that he is back in fashion life-affirming power and sex appeal, having lace, transparent fabric, drooping pants and baggy shoulders overhead (there are, however, some who calls McQueen "Mammogram" by Association with Thierry Mugler, widely used overhead shoulders long before McQueen). Is it possible that all this causes sexuality to ever become part of everyday life? "It depends on you (women). I'm not a woman. And not a transvestite. I don't buy it. But I hope that if you get sick from the single-breasted jacket, you will want more".
In his twenty-eight, he develops models for the two lines: their own, with the trademark McQueen (with the support of Onward Kashiyama, the Japanese Empire clothing) and the French fashion House Givenchy. When in the autumn of 1996, McQueen was joined Givenchy as the main artist, fashion designer, many saw this as almost a challenge to society. Hubert de Givenchy, created the standard of elegance in the clothes of her black dress, who wore the "face" of the House gorgeous Audrey Hepburn, and some commoner, confirmed. "Bull in a boutique," said one newspaper headline, to paraphrase a saying about the elephant in the room.
"I don't begged him to give me a job. They (the House of Givenchy) I have found. So, they want what I'm doing, irritably says McQueen. "I only care about the opinion of my head (Bernard Arnault). - After thinking a little, he adds: " clients. All that's between them, let it roll to the devil". He does quite often and nervously turns to the statements in the spirit of "he came to me". Talking about about Bjork for her album Homogenic and costumes for "the rolling stones", McQueen snorts: "I like music Bjork, besides she's my friend, but I'm indifferent to the creation of "the rolling stones". They came to me because they like my clothes. I don't offer".
A year ago when he was asked what inspired the name of his London show "out There in the jungle, he remembered a documentary about the Gazelle. "I looked at Gazelle, which devoured by lions and hyenas, and said to myself: "This is about me film! Someone is gunning for me, and if caught, so too will eat. The fashion world is a jungle full of disgusting, greedy hyenas". And now? "Now have I turned into a lion. I eat hyenas," he laughs quite.
... Her first dress McQueen drew at the age of three. Such an occupation can hardly be called typical for children from stepny, harsh working outskirts of London. It seemed unusual not only peers, but also his father, a taxi driver. "This is unheard of that the family from East London appeared the artist," says McQueen.
He began to learn the craft of the designer, when he was only sixteen years. Just quit school and went to work at the Saville row, London Bastion of high tailor's art (Saville row is a street in London, where the Atelier expensive men's tailors). The tailors Anderson & Shepherd he wrote with chalk on the jackets, one of which was destined for Prince Charles, the words: "Here was McQueen" and, in protest against the monarchy: "I'm a bitch" (in a very soft translation). After that, he joined in the Studio Gieves & Hawkes on the Saville row, where he labored pants. Later worked in theatrical costume designer, sewed different dresses, studied the subtleties of tailoring skill. But this work he did not like, though, by his own admission, he was "surrounded by these "Queens". As a result, he went to Milan to work for Romeo Gigli, where they gained first-hand knowledge about the basics of production and marketing of modern fashion. Educated at the prestigious school of modeling and design St. Martin's in London, McQueen felt like a real fashion designer. The most famous of his works of that period were pants "Polly", which was sitting on the waist so low that you could see the cleavage between the buttocks, and the topic, caked with blood and dirt. First impressions, which he spent as a freelance artist, had a certain political sense. So, he wrapped models in cellophane, "decorated" their jackets tires tracks or produced black model on the catwalk in handcuffs. In one season he threw the dress in the mud and stuck to them dead locusts. This was done to portray the disaster, which caused crop failures in Africa. In another season he staged a demonstration in the Church, where he said: "Religion is the source of all wars in the world". These words have become a serious violation of the norms that exist in the world of fashion, where designers rarely say anything more daring than: "Brown is the new black" or "This year I see the stripes".
A couple of years ago McQueen, a Scot by birth, organized a show called "Violence against Scotland in memory of the massacre, which was arranged by the British in Scotland in the eighteenth century. The girls were in torn clothes, and from under Scottish skirts they could see the bandages. "Press me crucified for it, " he recalls, " but I'm glad it did."
Cynics say that McQueen carefully calculates your steps to attract the attention of the press. He argues that only exposes the ugly truth before deaf to the entire audience.
"When I started to arrange his shows, I tried to show journalists that they just didn't want to see: hunger, blood, and poverty. Look at all this "fashion party" in their expensive outfit and dark glasses and realize that they no nothing about what is happening in the world. Their interests are limited fashion. I spend money on their shows in order to show these people the other side of life. May they feel hatred and disgust - that is fine with me. I know that at least some of the feelings awakened in them".
Of course, the shops reach only some of extravagantly, shocking in its frankness and flashy appeal of models. "In the collections of Haute couture, I have the right to Express yourself as a fashion designer in such extent that I felt I needed. In pret-a-porter fall only elements of this expression. Unfortunately, we all know that most just need some classic jacket. But it's not my problem," McQueen grins. Bitterness about the limited thinking of the mass of the buyer obvious, though his remarks on this occasion, not as cutting as you would expect. "I never told anyone: if you don't wear my clothes, you're hopelessly behind the times. It's very simple: people need to feel good in clothes. Doesn't feel right - don't buy. And all. I create my model for a strong, independent woman who knows a lot about things. The fashion magazines pay for something that they said have to wear this and that. My woman does not tolerate dictatorship".
The woman does not tolerate dictatorship. The woman, without fear of exposing the Breasts, if she wants. Woman, confusing long - or rather, the almost complete absence of the length of their skirts. Female power, female power. Don't you see this reverence to her, reverence to her, and even love? Yes, he's a pure feminist, this McQueen. He is on our side. "I always try to create equal conditions for women and men. I am a feminist in a male form, " he says. - I don't want the woman looked weak, naive creature, shrouded in a cloud of chiffon. Let these others are doing. My woman should be strong enough to resist any pressure on it. I have three sisters, and I have repeatedly had the opportunity to observe all the suffering that brought them men. This is, perhaps, the roots of my feminist attitudes". And the beauty. "Beauty is in heart of the beholder, wisely says he. - What's the use of trying to be beautiful for all? Still for someone you will look ugly. But for someone will be the epitome of the beautiful. As I myself, for example,". The answer to the question about their appearance was brief: "it is Better to ask what he thinks about it than my husband. My Murray. M-a-R-R-e-y. And write".
Talk gently flows into the region of the senses. Passionate, romantic-minded, naive. An adherent of monogamous marriage. In prioritizing the trust. Gives people only have one chance. If you are not able to appreciate this second chance you will not. Jealous? Yes not that he was jealous, just doesn't like it when they make it idiot... "Oh, my, something we too have fond personal... laughing, he shouts. "Let us continue".
Naive and romantic man repeatedly shouting different things. In the same Details magazine describes this situation: "... broadcasting on the fashion for Italian television complains that stood on the street for two hours before she was allowed to go to the show. "I'm fifty years old, " she says McQueen, " and to me that's not the way to go. How do you explain this? "she asks. McQueen starts to tremble, his face is bright pink. "What are you then come, if you don't like it here. Don't like it go home! Employee Kashiyama stands in front of the camera and closes the lens with his hand, demanding to stop the interview. "If you don't like it e... e show, " says McQueen with such force that his voice breaks, go on..! "
He always not enough time. So much so that he couldn't even attend the showing of his collection for the House of Givenchy in Moscow metro. Flew - flew. "From the very beginning of his work at Givenchy" I work without a break. I sometimes don't have time to do what makes every human being. So here I am to you is gently formulated, although I could say something rude," he is clearly pleased with his courtesy. Does not tolerate questions about future collections: "Guys, I'm doing 10 collections per year. How do I know what will happen tomorrow?! It is physically impossible. What will be my next collection, I begin to understand only when they see a piece of fabric on the mannequin. The world in the form in which it now exists, has no future. Let's try to begin to live a few days".
Say, McQueen earns a million dollars a year, however, there is evidence that he is more interested in different adventures and thrills than money. He sells under its own brand sunglasses, handbags, scarves and other accessories in Japan and at the same time refuses many other attractive offers. "I do not produce perfume, bath towels, baby clothes. Do not hesitate to contact me for bedding, because I have you won't get it. And if you will, then it will be all the spots, " he says. I get mad when I see everywhere my clothes. I don't want to dress all in a row, because I do like".
Source:
People
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