John Galliano (John Galliano)

John Galliano (John Galliano) leads a double life. Today he is the designer House of Christian Dior, and thanks to him, this House is now associated not with the venerable matron, and with a beckoning siren. In the House of Dior, Galliano - "Monsieur comme Il faut is custom-made Dior three-piece suit of dark wool, soft felt hat famously twisted sideways, the nails perfectly polished. His Studio is located on the chic Avenue Montaigne, just above the main Dior boutique, and it occupies an old mansion.


The next day he is John Galliano, the designer of her own fashion house located in the former puppet factory. Dressed as a difficult teenager, huge size shorts and a t-shirt, black beret, big medallion on the bare chest and ski sunglasses in a gilded frame. He listens to club music and going to the gym. Don't drink, refused coffee, but the pack of Marlboros he is always with you.




John Galliano - the darling of the fashion establishment, one of the most influential creators of fashion in the world. He became chief designer for the House of Dior and let it set in stone in their respectability Home second wind: shook naphthalene, made fresh, made fashionable and desirable. Sales are growing, business is booming. And the shows in the first row - a gallery of stars: Nicole Kidman and demi Moore to Celine Dion and Kristin Scott Thomas.




Now he turned his attention to Russia - the first Dior boutique was opened in Moscow in November 1997. Himself Galliano'd never been here, but Russia inspires him, and he says he wants to come.




In between fittings, sitting on the Sunny terrace, Galliano talks about his Alliance with the House of Dior, having time while looking for a light snack. There is something boyish and predatory at the same time. Mustache - almost like Salvador Dali and dazzling white-toothed smile. Talking quietly and seriously, and then suddenly - famous campy laugh. He says that terribly shy, and he still shining eyes, radiating tireless energy.




"Monsieur Dior was the God of fashion, " says Galliano. - It is he who dream in childhood. I never imagined that I would become a designer Dior - never in wildest dreams. Sometimes I want to pinch myself to make sure that this is not a dream".




He was encouraged by the fact that it is a great honour to lead the fashion House with half a century of history in the new Millennium.




Absolute romantic, yearning for the eighteenth century, he creates today. Loves quirks, zagromozhdaet jewelry, embroidery, fringe, application - and at the same time can make a simple dress so that it would be the ultimate dream. A born showman, famous all over the world, he can with his eyes closed to describe all the technical stuff cut of the vest of the eighteenth century.




Galliano just created for Dior mainly because shares his all-consuming passion for femininity. As he says himself: "Dior idolized female beauty, so in today's models, we try to emphasize the bust line, waist, hips. A new image of the woman Dior - sensual, decadent, recklessly romantic. Haughtily raised his chin, flowing cascade necklace of peridot and dairy-pearl drop earrings. The mermaid dress, cut on the bias - dusty lilac, or, perhaps, inky-black, with a train, painted lilies. And as the final touch - a dizzying heights of heels. "It's a woman who enjoys her femininity, confirms Galliano. We tried to imagine what would have created Dior, were he alive today".




Unbridled imagination is characteristic of John Galliano. Sketches, sketches, scraps of fabrics - all of this will be later. Designer Galliano begins with the female image. This can be a historical figure, the heroine of the novel, or just a figment of his imagination. "I am inspired personality. I represent, what was this woman, what she wore, what would you like to wear, where she lived, who were her lovers, " says Galliano. "Maybe she ran away from Russia as the Grand Duchess Anastasia" - this statement refers to his collection "the Princess Lucretia" (spring-summer, 1994).




They invented the image of the Princess Lucretia arose from accidentally read a newspaper article about the study of the Imperial family remains found in Ekaterinburg: Tsar Nicholas, tsarina Alexandra, and only three of the five children. This story is so captured Galliano, he has created a lush collection of ball gowns, satin quilted capes and skirts taffeta, which could carry the mythical Princess-the runaway.




Working on a new collection, Galliano even change their own style to match her spirit. "Clothing is a way of expression and part of the creative process, " he says. I turned to a dealer cars in the Gypsy or the Matador". He speaks in the past tense, because now tries to dress neutral: "I gave out too many secrets, using his own appearance characteristic details of the upcoming collection".




Calling in the imagination of the female image, Galliano begins to gather a collection of sketches, book illustrations, prints, quotes, clippings from old magazines. He was interested in everything: hair, buttons, embroidery. For example, selection of illustrations for the collection of "Princess Lucretia is simply a chronicle of old Russia Here, and Peter the great in the jacket, and details hussar costume, and even mark type: watch the film "Doctor Zhivago".




This finding is very important for creativity Galliano, maybe that's why he fully shared the work on the lines of Dior and Galliano. All studies for Dior underway in Paris, this is mainly the study of the "wonderful Dior archives". To develop lines Galliano main place - new York. Previously, it was London, the Victoria and albert Museum, where Galliano used to walk a student, make sketches and to explore the work of Madeleine Vienna, the great couturier 1930-ies. "But to stroll through the street market is as exciting as it is to consider the historic fabric, " says Galliano. Even if I only go out with friends to clubs - it inspires me. My friend DJ Jeremy Healy makes music to my shows, and in his spare time carrying my clubs throughout England". The culmination of the creative process becomes a show - fashion show and theatrical performance at the same time. Instead of the usual invitations to each guest send souvenir - for example, the bracelet with pendants, a ballet slipper, handbag under leopard," to immediately configure it waiting for something extraordinary. Then Galliano luring guests in exotic place - it can be destroyed house, the Botanical garden or the Paris roof, populated by such colorful figures as tango dancers, rope or Indian Raja.




At this point, the woman of my dreams would materialize, and to stand before the eyes of admirers. So, the woman Dior exists in the atmosphere of aristocratic decadence - here she is in her boudoir, falls on the couch with highly fluffed pillows, but she slips on the steps of the Paris Grand Opera, accompanied by the aroma of thousands of blooming roses. The woman Galliano need a more bizarre scenario: the Gypsy camp, the tea party in a medieval castle, a seedy Berlin cabaret or Parking.




In his first collection in 1947 Christian Dior introduced the catwalk silhouette "chest-waist-hips", and he was immediately dubbed "The New Look" - "New Image". New because Dior has thrown a gauntlet of extravagance in the face of the hungry post-war Paris, dressed in boring shapeless jackets and baggy old woman's skirt. He created, or constructed, jacket, outlining the chest and emphasizing the waist; skirt, draped hips miles of fabric. "New Image" broke the Paris - loved it or hated. Incurred public outcry made Dior famous overnight. He opened his House by address: Avenue Montaigne, 30 (where he remains to this day), and he was employed in his favorite gray-white. During his ten-year career, he became couturier number one in the world and the referee Parisian elegance and chic.




After the glory of the 50-ies of the House of Dior gradually began to lose popularity, and by 1996, when there came Galliano, was known in the first place, costumes for ladies of middle age and bourgeois ballroom dresses. Galliano very diplomatic speaks about his role: "I think we slightly shook off the cobwebs, made things easy. I mean that before the women just stood Colom - he smiles maliciously. Our jackets are still quite traditional and ideally sit, but they are created for women, easy on rise, which costs nothing to fly to new York to dine".




"The woman Dior is a true Parisian, whose image eventually began to fade. I wanted to revive it, to give the world exactly what he expects from Dior." In practice, for these beautiful words are hidden quite mundane things. "We have reviewed the design began to use high-tech materials, new colors, but highlights Galliano, is still stored stunning cut".




It completely shifted the emphasis on evening clothes sale clothes for the evening now accounts for 80% of all finished goods, compared with 20% in the past), introduced his famous cut on the bias and has updated the fur collection.




And yet Galliano's not talking about the main thing - about the cult of Dior, which he managed to revive. This cult means that Dior now trendy again; what it shows can not miss in any case; that in the first row sits Nicole Kidman; that girlfriend Galliano Kate moss and Naomi Campbell appear at the celebrations in clothes from Dior.




Today Galliano's star of the fashion world and should follow the severe schedule. He is torn between the House of Dior and his own and makes twelve collections per year.


But it was not always so. He was born in Gibraltar in 1960, when John (then Juan Carlos Antonio was six years old, the family moved to London. His father was a plumber and his mother were engaged in the children she taught them to dance flamenco on the kitchen table and dressed, as he recalls Galliano, "for any reason - even just a walk to the corner".




In school, he drew all the time - "phones and flowers". Then he studied at St Martin, the most prestigious English College of fashion and design, and was ready to go to new York, where he was waiting for the place of a fashion Illustrator. For my graduate collection on the theme of French post-revolutionary movement "Incredible", he created eight outfits that were literally swept away from the podium one of the largest London boutiques. And then in this boutique came Diana Ross and bought a vest. Thus began the legend of John Galliano.




"It was a crazy summer, " he recalls. Parents went to Spain, I settled in their home and strocel one vest for others. I bought the fabric, itself painted, sewed jackets, transported them and went first.




Galliano did not go to new York. Instead, he suddenly became a Prodigy of London fashion. Season after season he created amazing things, which brought in the admiration of all, but a "breakthrough", including financial, came not. In the early 90s Galliano leaves London and goes to seek his fortune in Paris. He comes back without a penny in his pocket, sleeping on the floor in the apartment of a friend. A friend lends him a few square meters in one of his factories. Galliano designs and trying to scrape together some funds to find financial support.




And then comes his hour. In March 1994, when fashion became mired in deconstruction, and dresses made of burlap and bony models flooded the catwalks, Galliano threw down his challenge. He released a brilliant collection, full of extravagant luxury. It includes all seventeen unique outfits against at least eighty, putting the other houses. It showed seventeen of the best models of the world, such as Linda Evangelista, Kate moss and Naomi Campbell, and it all happened in an abandoned mansion, where dusty chandeliers poetically down to the floor and the wind drove the foliage across the hall. This policealne the action returned to the world of fashion beauty and approved Galliano in the top League of the world's designers. Two years later came the invitation from the House of Dior.




Ask Galliano of his favorite, most memorable moment - after blowing a long silence. Then he will say very quietly: "I made a collection called "Fallen Angels", inspired by the era of the Directory - many muslin dresses. And just before the girls came to the podium, I threw them in a bucket of water then it was fashionable to wear dresses wet. It was something! Just a fairy tale! "




This says all about the genius of Galliano. He not only creates images of rare beauty, but also has amazing human magnetism. Magnetism, making models meekly to accept from him any surprises - even a bucket of cold water before going to the podium.




According to the magazine "Vogue Russia" No. 1, September 1998




The Collection Of Christian Dior Haute Couture


The Collection Of Christian Dior Autumn 2010

Author:

Drake A.


Source:

Peoples.ru

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