Gabrielle Coco Chanel was cut off from any dresses all that she seemed to think it unnecessary. But most of all she wanted to remove all the excess from my life, to cut off the ugly, unnecessary flaps, an orphanage, a casino, a reputation as a ladies demi and accusations of espionage. Alas, this dress is for her to reshape and failed...
1954, Paris, Rue Cambon, 31.
Two dozen models languishing along the mirrored walls of the cabin, afraid to move once again: their costumes are made literally on the live thread. We all know that Mademoiselle never makes preliminary sketches. It gives seamstresses instructions, which are arranged in the model, and then personally bring them to perfection. But finally she is: a small, withered woman in a black suit and white blouse, covered with shiny jewelry. In crooked arthritic fingers unchanged scissors. For some time she looks closely model, then suddenly, like a kite, throwing a mannequin, dressed in a simple suit of Jersey, and begins to mercilessly shred fabric: shorter jacket, skirt and then, finally, decisively cut collar. So, ' she says.
Queen of fashion was born August 19, 1883 in provincial Saumur. Her mother, char Jeanne DeVol, had the misfortune to fall in love with well-known all around heartthrob, traveling salesman by the name of albert Chanel. He agreed to issue legal marriage only a year after the birth of their second daughter, Gabrielle. After 11 years, Jeanne, exhausted by hard work and endless childbirth, died. Albert Chanel was left with a bunch of kids on hand. Sons he hurriedly sent to relatives, and Gabrielle and her two sisters had taken refuge at the monastery Abasin. For Gabriel it was a terrible blow. She adored father, though he appeared infrequently, but always was so beautiful, elegant and cheerful. And now she had an extra in his life. In the shelter he even never visited.
Forever sullen, embittered Gabriel does not shining success in school. In the shelter of the girls were taught needlework, and worst of all sewing was given exactly Chanel: the future Queen of fashion was unbearably boring hemming and overcast. However, after shelter Gabriel easily found work as a seamstress in a clothing shop in the small town of Moulins. There was stationed a cavalry garrison, and the young seamstress soon gained a lot of fans.
She was frequently invited to the only city casino rotunda. One day after a speech the next singer Chanel said, in jest, of course: and I would sing better! Her fans-the officers thought this was a great idea. Chanel began performing in the Rotunda and was a success, although performed just two songs - Ko Ko Ri Ko and Qui qu'a vu Coco. Since then, Mademoiselle Chanel and received his famous nickname Coco, which, I must say, she could not stand.
While Gabriel tried to stay afloat by itself, without the aid of wealthy patrons. She was an excellent seamstress, and she had many private orders. But Chanel was not going to spend your life in a provincial town. She went to the fashionable resort of Vichy and tried to make a career of the singer, which of course it did not happen: she had not danced and sang directly.
Pomykalski some time, Chanel has accepted the offer of his old lover Etienne Balsan to live a little in his castle of Royo. A rich heir and a passionate athlete, Balsan most loved horses and women - in that order. Mistresses-kept women he had many, but only Coco Chanel became another and another, because he was a great lover of horse riding. Specifically for racing she invented a special suit is the first suit from Chanel: dress, similar to the uniform pansionerki, tie and little hat-boater without a single decoration. Ladies began to order the Chanel small round hats, and it gave her the idea to open his own hat shop.
Balsan reacted to this idea very skeptical, but still provided Gabriel his garsoniera - bachelor apartment on Boulevard Malesherbes in Paris, where he opened the first workshop Chanel. Much more enthusiasm showed each Balsan, a young Englishman, Arthur Capel, nicknamed the Battle. His apartment was on the same Boulevard, just 150 metres from the Studio Chanel.
Arthur Gabriel met in the castle of Royo and literally fell in love at first sight. He was very handsome, extremely charming and also a great rider. Arthur Capel was the great love Chanel. Even perhaps, unique. By the way, unlike Balsana he actively supported initiatives Coco and funded its projects.
With the help of Capel in 1910, Coco opened his first boutique in Paris - the famous salon on the Rue Cambon, and after three years - the first branch in Deauville. Soon she has a real House models on the fashionable resort of Biarritz.
What was the secret of such success? Before Chanel women were buried under miles of fabric and lace: a narrow skirt-kovaleski, huge turnure, plumes, zametalsya dust, and giant hats, more like cakes. The Chanel's did not fit dresses, emphasizing a wasp waist and lush bust, she had nothing to stress. In addition, these toilets were bound traffic. She has offered women a completely new, unprecedented outfits, often borrowed from the male wardrobe. For example, a sailor with a deep neckline and wide turndown collar or a leather jacket in the manner of a jockey. She was always inspired by what I personally liked it and it was convenient.
It was a real revolution. Chanel created the fashion again, ignoring the fact that it is accepted and what is not. During the First world war, when good tissue was not available, she bought unsold consignment Jersey, which was considered too rough even for men's underwear. The seller honestly warned her: Believe me, this fabric is wrinkled, winces bristles. You won't be able to make it. Absolutely nothing! Indeed, to put Jersey on the figure appeared to be absolutely impossible. Then Chanel decided: to hell with the waist! And made himself an elegant jacket-truecar, and then dress no waist, but with the scarf on the hips and neck, like a collar mens shirts, famous dress-chemise. In 1915, the magazine harpers Bazaar wrote: the Woman in the wardrobe there is at least one thing from Chanel is hopelessly out of fashion.
So, in a matter of years, Gabriel has achieved everything he had dreamed once: she was rich, famous and independent. But with personal life all was not as we would like. Her beloved Arthur Capel decided it was time to start a family. But milliner Coco would not be his wife. He left her and in 1918 married noble beauty lady Diana Lister. A year later, on Christmas eve, 1919, Arthur died in a car crash. This tragedy completely crippled Gabriel.
She came only a year later, when met in Biarritz with the Grand Duke Dmitry Pavlovich, cousin of the late Nicholas II. Dmitry participated in the murder of Rasputin and, to escape the wrath of the Empress fled to Persia - it saved him from death in 1918. Chanel was older than the Grand Duke for eight years, which does not stop to their romance. Princes of the blood had always caused me immeasurable pity, " wrote the Chanel. Their craft when they perform it, is the saddest of all possible; but even worse when they can't do it. Like most Russian immigrants, the great Prince Dmitry was stranded. Millionaire Chanel actually took him up on the content, but made it so tactfully that he did not consider himself insulted.
It was Dmitry arranged a meeting with Coco perfumer Ernest Beaux, whose father worked once on the Royal family. Own perfume - such was not yet none of the fashion House, Chanel decided on a bold experiment. In its order, the perfumer has developed two series of samples mixed floral aromas. Coco chose the sample No. 5.
At the time, fashion was extremely artsy bottles of colored or frosted glass with embossed patterns from Lalique. But Chanel ordered transparent crystal box without a single decoration, somewhat similar in form to Russian vodka bottle. Defiantly a simple bottle with a white label and black letters Chanel created a sensation. Chanel No. 5 became the most famous perfume in the entire history of the fashion industry. And soon there came another immortal hit Coco - little hat-bell, perfectly suited to trendy short haircut a la garcon. Finally, in 1926, Chanel invented the Little Black Dress, which still remains the absolute benchmark of elegance.
She had many novels, including the Duke of Westminster, the richest and most extravagant peer of England. Rumor had it that he was offered Chanel hand and heart. But Coco didn't want to exchange your House of fashion on personal happiness and title. She said: Duchesses much, and Coco Chanel is one! The Duke soon married a young lady Loelia Mary Ponsonby, and Coco Chanel really was alone again.
However, there were other men - young, beautiful, and famous. The poet Pierre Reverdy wrote her poems until his death in 1960. Artist and designer Paul IRIB died of a heart attack right before them with Gabriel wedding. Finally, the German officer Hans von Dinklage - Coco-Twister with him love in occupied Paris, spitting on public opinion.
Paris literally hated Chanel because of this Association, and she had to leave France. Almost seven years she has lived in Switzerland, not declaring about yourself. And in 1953 seventy Coco Chanel suddenly returned to Paris. But her new collection was not a success: the French could not forget her Chanel cooperation with the invaders. Well, most Chanel was on this damn. She went on to create a collection for the collection, and in a few years the French surrendered: started this analmania.
Coco was again on top of success and at the same time all alone. In an interview she once said: a Woman cannot be happy if she hated, and she just needs it. Woman do not like, is null and nothing more. Trust me: young or old, a mother, a mistress, a Woman that does not love, is a ruined woman. She can die, it wouldn't matter.
Gabrielle Coco Chanel died on January 11, 1971 in the attic of the hotel Ritz. She was 88 years old. The top, which it reached in the fashion world, and remained unconquered.
Coco Chanel - agent nicknamed MODELLHUT
Author:
Bandarenko M
Source:
Arguments and facts
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