Monday, April 21, 2014

Marc Jacobs (Marc Jacobs)


Marc Jacobs (Marc Jacobs)



The ingenious ability of Marc Jacobs to anticipate the tastes of the public, to amaze and delight, a wonderful way to get along with, and, perhaps, explains the mental shyness: "On its own impressions I feel like in a movie, as if the invisible "I" observes the usual "me", rukopisima crowd, with the models... I can't believe all and every time, feeling joy, ask yourself - what have I done in life to deserve it? "



1963 Marc Jacobs was born on April 9 in new York. His father died when the boy was seven. The mother even got married three times, and each time the family had moved. In the cycle of improvement of personal life of the mother Brand, it seems, was little space, and, in the end, he went to live with her grandmother in an old mansion in Manhattan. About the grandmother he will respond as "the person who had the greatest impact on my life and generally the only truly close relative. It was she, who loved to spend time in front of the television with knitting, taught him to wield the spokes and instilled a taste for beautiful things.



1978 Jacobs moonlights as a boutique Charivari, a very progressive establishment of his time. There, he met with the famous designer Perry Ellis, who had on Mark strong vpechatlenie: "he had long hair, he wore a suit and a tie and was composed unusual clothes. All in all I was very inspired by". Six years later, while studying at the School of design Parsons, among numerous other awards, he will receive the prize named Ellis. And while Jacobs not only knit sweaters, but also actively socialities. "It was important to get into Studio 54, until I turned sixteen. All told, "you will not work", but it was not difficult - I always went to rock'n'roll clubs like Hurrah. I grew up on an accelerated program. A new teacher at Parsons as I tried to pry: "something you wrinkled look". "I don't wrinkled look, " I replied. Just last sixteen years old live in new York". However, I never felt cool. Yes, I've been in steep places and behaved appropriately, but inside always felt clumsy. In this clumsy I still cozy".



1984 Fateful meeting: mark meets with Robert Duffy future business partner, who will replace him brother, father and friend. Himself Duffy describes this acquaintance as "love, business, love at first sight". He was just looking for a companion on the creative part and found him in the person of Jacobs. Soon about Atelier Jacobs Duffy Designs begin to speak dandies and ladies.



1986 Becoming the youngest winner of the CDFA in the category "Best new designer", mark deploys a wide scope of work. His signature move is to turn the expensive things in supercasual (creased kashmirie sweaters were sold at $1 200). The couple was keenly interested in the key person industry: it writes Anna Wintour, they buy things buyers Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale's, and Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Cindy Turlington free participate in shows. Fairy good luck, however, do not interfere with Mark and Robert to balance on the verge of financial collapse.



1989 Jacobs and Duffy invited to work in the House of Perry Ellis. Soon the founder of the brand is dying, and the guide makes the courageous decision to promote young talent on the creative ladder. Mark became the creative Director, and Robert - President. In the end, in their hands has what they dreamed of a powerful infrastructure. Jacobs meets his open horizons not only with enthusiasm, but with horror - confidence in their abilities (groundless for an outside observer) is filled shock doses of alcohol.



1992 The year of the legendary grunge collection. By his own admission, for the invention of a new style of Jacobs was inspired by the song Smells Like Teen Spirit, overheard in a Berlin bar. "It was the energy that came through was that clubs like Hurrah". Unkempt and awkward teenage riot mark obrazaet in a checkered shirt, if bought for $ 2 at a flea market (actually pure silk), crumpled - of course! - sweaters, satin sneakers Birkenstocks and heavy "Martens". All this betrays branded irony - in the end than even handier to protect their vulnerability? Jacobs with undisguised joy will remember this collection as "slightly bonkers". The press and the audience were delighted, but shareholders Perry Ellis for such tricks were not ready. Extravagant designer was fired together with your partner.



1996 While Jacobs has been working in Italy on collection for Iceberg, Duffy - rings French businessman Bernard Arnault, the person who manage to revive a classic French fashion Houses injections young designer of blood. It is Arno matched John Galliano at Dior, Alexander McQueen at Givenchy and Narciso Rodriguez at Loewe. Initially, Duffy does not take seriously the invitation to meet, but Arnault insists. The negotiations lasted a year and a half. Jacobs tipped for the role of creative Director of the luxury brand Louis Vuitton. The new York Duo requires that LVMH is guaranteed to support the brand Marc Jacobs. Arno, in the end, is a formal concession: $140 000 is much less than would Americans, but enough money to open shop Marc Jacobs at Mercer street and a few shows. It is noteworthy that in a few years the group will release a third of the shares of the brand and will get 96% of Marc Jacobs International. While Marc is preparing the first ever collection of Louis Vuitton pret-a-porter.


2000

Arno neither Gran not miscalculated: the sale of the house grow, and with them the mental confusion of Jacobs. He was in the midst of that honed the world, which was used to make fun from the perspective of the characters in his grunge collection. Fear of failure - suddenly clumsy guy miss? it becomes unbearable. Anna Sui, a close friend of the designer, says that "mark wanted all disappeared - he simply did not have the strength". Jacobs does not spend a single day without cocaine and alcohol is disabled in the workplace, slips on subordinates. Duffy, constantly clashing with the management of LVMH and spending all the forces on the support of a partner, literally greyish. In the end, the designer is asked to go to a rehabilitation clinic.



2001 Resurrected Jacobs receives as many as seven CDFA awards, including Best women's clothing designer", "Best menswear designer", "Best designer of accessoires". Profit Louis Vuitton continue to grow, and by 2004-mu reach 3, $ 5 billion per year. Prior to joining Jacobs, this amount was three times less. Last but not least in the trendy blitzkrieg play the role of a brilliant collaboration with Steven Spruce, Julie Verhoeven, Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince.



2006 Across the planet open 60 boutiques, the name of the designer emblazoned on six fragrances, two collections of points, time line. Breathtaking stereoscopic effect create two different approaches to fashion and beauty, which mark uses for Louis Vuitton and their own brand. The difference is best seen in promotional images: in one case - the Madonna and j-Lo, blameless, as the goddess, the predator, which from broncomania" saves subtle irony and unconditional sense of taste. In another Winona Ryder and t.A.t.U., a little awkward women-girls, rock'n'roll of mechtatelnitsa retained pubertal charm.


2007

Log Out-turn Mark at number eight in the list of the "Fifty most influential gays and lesbians in the USA". In the same year, Jacobs again in a rehabilitation clinic to re neubivaemoy energy to get back to work.


2009

Showing in two cities three collections (with predictable furor), Marc Jacobs is leaving on vacation in San Paolo. Before it becomes known that the designer was engaged to Brazilian advertiser Lorenzo Marton and, it is possible that the New year the couple married. A serious thing - especially when you consider that marriage decided to combined the man who by his own admission hates the word "maturity".








Source:

Vogue
















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